Turkmenistan Day 3, Part 1 ~ The Races!

Our third day in Turkmenistan was when things got exciting. Just when we were starting to joke that there were "No Horses in Turkmenistan," along came the opening day of horse racing... and with it, LOTS of Akhal-Tekes. 

As per the custom... we were up and out of the hotel at the crack of dawn, before breakfast or coffee or any such luxuries.... unlike in America, eating in Turkmenistan takes a back seat to ceremony. We would be attending the celebrations for the opening day of horse racing... complete with a speech by the President himself. The buses took us to the Ashgabad Equestrian Complex where we were ushered to seats in the grand entrance plaza... the entirety of which was covered in beautiful Turkmen carpets. Amrita and I wondered how they carted all the carpets around... and how many people it took to roll them all up. It wouldn't surprise me if they transported them in full-size moving vans.... or maybe even dump-trucks. 

We learned early-on that when the President makes an appearance.... much singing and dancing is to be expected in his honor.  And when the President is planning to make a speech.... the singing and dancing is that much more exuberant. And because horse racing is one of President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov's most favorite things.... we were treated to a very grand performance indeed. Interestingly... there seemed to be a theme song performed during both of the celebrations we attended. Whether this is a national song or just happens to be the President's favorite tune... I don't know.... but it was certainly catching because I have had it stuck in my head ever since! Here is a video of the opening ceremony:

                   

After the performance.... President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov gave his speech, which we were able to follow along with via booklets that translated it into various languages. The title was "Address By The President Of Turkmenistan Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov On The Occasion of Turkmen Horse Holiday At The Ashgabat Equestrian Complex." He talked about the importance of the Akhal-Teke to Turkmen culture, the desire of the Turmken government to become involved with the international equestrian market, their plans to increase the breeding of Akhal-Tekes within Turkmenistan, and at the same time expand their national horse racing operations. 

And promptly after the ceremonies... we proceeded into the hippodrome to watch the races. This was very exciting because not only had I never seen a live horse race, but this one was with Akhal-Tekes! Not to mention the opportunity to observe so many of Turkmenistan's famous horses all at the same venue. The sun was shining... snacks & drinks were served... spectators were starting to get rowdy... and suddenly everybody was having a good time. 

Before the races began... there was a mounted parade of Akhal-Tekes. 

This rider is apparently Ashgabat's head horseman... we would see him perform several times with several different horses at the race track and leading a circus the following day. 

                       

And then came the stunt riding! 

I recorded lots of video footage.... but my video camera needs a head cleaner and is now refusing to download without scrambling the picture. But here is what I was able to get off the first tape... 

More videos to come soon!!

                      

We saw 12 races in total.... over a variety of distances. After each race the jockey of the winning horse rode directly to the grandstands, dismounted... then two grooms removed the saddle and presented the horse to the crowds. This was my favorite part because they would lead the horse right in front of where we were sitting so we could get a good look at them. Amrita took heaps of photos... but unfortunately I can't bog this blog down with the lot of them. Here's a handful to ponder over: 

The biggest thrill of the day might have been the "dancing horse"... or what Amrita and I referred to as the "Snake Stallion," since he struck and hissed just like a cobra teased out of a basket... 

(Videos of this guy, as well as the races, coming soon, too!)

There were news reporters from a local television station who were interviewing people for their show... so of course I had to volunteer:

From his balcony suite... President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov watched over it all. He is the figure in white you see standing behind the glass:

The winning jockeys received brand new cars!! Needless to say.... it was easy to get caught up in the excitement. I can't imagine what it was like for the jockeys. But I had to wonder if the cars would serve them well. They wouldn't have to worry about fuel... Turkmen citizens receive free petrol! I guess that's the pay-off for things like... having to sweep dirt off dark highways with stick-brooms.... or being required to travel half the night just to fill a seat in a hippodrome at ungodly hours of the morn. 

A winning jockey holding up the key to his new car...

When the awards ceremony was over... it was time for lunch. The Ashgabat hippodrome was equipped with a number of large closed-dining kiosks.... and for this occasion, each was sponsored by a different individual, company, or organization. At our kiosk... the food was great, the vodka was plentiful, and many toasts were made. We were delighted to have so many new friends from all over the world... 

Due to the influence of Russia.... Turkmenians drink LOTS of vodka. 

It's pretty much served at every meal.. including breakfast! 

As the saying goes... Vodka cures all ailments. 

I was even told it would sterilize my stomach and ward off food poisoning! 

Here is Linda Welsch and I enjoying our lunch. 

Later that afternoon we would travel two hours outside Ashgabat to visit an ENORMOUS new hippodrome-in-the-works... which was unlike anything we had ever seen. Stay Tuned for Turkmenistan Day 3, Part 2! 

To see more photos... go to the Sweet Water Farm Akhal-Teke Facebook Page! 

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Water-Farm-Akhal-Teke/167244119957164?ref=ts

Read all about our Trip To Turkmenistan by visiting the following posts:

To Turkmenistan We Go

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/04/to-turkmenistan-we-go.html

Jet Lag  

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/04/jet-lag.html 

Turkmenistan Day 1 - The International Akhal-Teke Horse Breeding Association

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/05/turkmenistan-day-1-first-meeting-of.html 

Turkmenistan Day 2 - The President Rides & An Akhal-Teke Beauty Contest 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/05/turkmenistan-day-2-president-rides.html 

Turkmenistan Day 3, Part 1 - The Races 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/05/turkmenistan-day-3-part-1-races.html 

Turkmenistan Day 3, Part 2 - A Bigger-Than-God-Himself Hippodrome-In-The-Works 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/05/turkmenistan-day-3-part-2-bigger-than.html 

Turkmenistan Day 4, Part 1 - The Circus 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/05/turkmenistan-day-4-part-1-circus.html

Turkmenistan Day 4, Part 2 - The Stud Farms 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/06/turkmenistan-day-4-part-2-stud-farms.html 

Turkmenistan Day 5 - The Russian Bazaar 

http://eventingakhaltekes.blogspot.com/2011/06/turkmenistan-day-5-russian-bazaar.html